| Run Lithuania
5 May 2004
They say that at 6,000 feet above sea level, Boulder,
CO is the running capital of the world. Frank Shorter lives there,
the Japanese runners train there, and it's home to one of the largest
10k races in the world. But I never had such great runs in Boulder
as I have had this spring in Lithuania.
Two weeks ago, I took my friend, who was visiting from Germany,
to the small town of Juodkrante on the peninsula of Neringa, the
narrow strip of land separating the Curonian lagoon from the Baltic
Sea. This area, 60k long and only about 2km wide, is designated
as a national park. Less than 3,000 people live there. It is all
forest of high pine trees and a soft mossy floor, spilling out onto
the white sandy beaches which meet the Baltic Sea. Sunday morning,
Christian and I were greeted with clear blue skies and a soft warm
breeze. We set out on our run along the Curonan lagoon before turning
up to the center of the peninsula to run on miles of hilly trails.
There are no flat runs in Lithuania, but no real hiking either.
Lithuanian trails are perfect for distance running because they
are constantly up and down, but never too steep a grade for running.
As we wound our way through the forest, you could smell the herbs
and mushrooms growing along the trail mixed with the sea air you
couldn't see through the trees but knew was there.
Having a vague idea of where we were and where I wanted to go, after
about 40 min, I led us down, out of the forest, to run along the
dunes before finally finishing on the beach. It's a unique landscape:
beaches and fine and white as you find along the Mediterranean Sea,
against the back drop of a Northern European forest. It was late
April and I couldn't resist putting my feet in the sea. The water
was cold, but not shockingly so, not to my feet at least, but it
would have required a couple of shots of Samogonis (Lithuanian moonshine)
to go in any further! After finishing up with some stretching and
stomach routine, we headed back into the forest towards the hotel
and we came across what I was looking for, the Hill of Witches,
an exposition of sculptures of witches, devils and spirits set in
the trees.
I was inspired. These are the kind of runs that give one a sense
of the meaning of their own life. Runs that inspire you to do great
things, or, if nothing else, get you through another long week of
work. They are what a runner, no matter how amateur, looks forward
to at the end of the week because he or she knows that this run,
this moment, is as good as it gets, and it is pretty damn good.
This weekend, there was a reunion of the skiers at Ignalina, that
infamous site of so many parties this, and every, winter! I wasn't
going for the party though. My thoughts were only of 40km of prepared
ski trails in the summer! I was not disappointed. Strongly heading
off the offers to re-fill my shot glass at the party and making
sure to drink lots of water, I was in good shape yesterday morning
for my run, and the weather was more than cooperating. Without the
wind, it was almost hot outside, the skies again were blue and the
birds were holding a concert just for me! As the sun vainly enjoyed
it's reflection on the lake, I headed out along the 7.5km loop which
climbed quickly into the forest. The first thing I noticed were
the smells. Mushrooms, herbs, flowers, I don't know, but they were
all at once so new and so familiar. Near Ignalina the forest is
mostly deciduous and the sparkle of the sun through the leaves was
almost startling. The words to "What a Wonderful World"
played over and over in my head... "I see trees of green, red
roses too..." I passed open fields covered in dandelions and
small lakes surrounded by Birch trees. Half way around the loop,
I turned off onto a soft dirt road which led me past small farms,
wooden houses, tractors, an old woman out for a walk, and a cow
relaxing under an apple tree in the yard. After 20 min, I turned
back and finished the loop, climbing one last killer hill, never
breaking pace, to make for a grand total of 80 min, and about 15km.
I was more than satisfied.
It's ironic isn't it, that I will be better trained this year for
my marathon living in Lithuania, than I ever was living in the Running
Capital of the world?
Happy Trails everyone!
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